Leiths’ Max Clark, who co-compiled the recently launched Meat Bible, has very kindly donated a delicious recipe from the book.  When asked which she would recommend for my readers, Max suggested; “Ox cheek daube, as it’s coming up to that time of year when a warming bowl of a deep, rich stew is the order of the day.”

Ox Cheek Daube

The word daube means ‘stew’ or ‘casserole’.  If a tight-fitting lid is not available, a paste of flour and water (called repère or luting paste) can be placed around the edge of the dish to create a seal.  It is chipped off and discarded when the stew is ready.

SERVES 4

900 g ox cheek or veal cheek, cut into large pieces, excess sinews removed

1 bottle of red wine

2 tablespoons oil

2 onions, finely sliced

2 carrots, cut into 3cm chunks

2 sticks of celery, finely sliced

6 shallots, quartered

600 ml brown stock

1 small handful of parsley stalks

6 sprigs of fresh thyme

1 tablespoon tomato purée

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

½ tablespoon soft dark brown sugar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Crisp pancetta, to garnish (see below)

1. Put the cheek meat into a large, non-metallic bowl and pour over the red wine. Leave to marinate for 24 hours.

2. Drain the meat, reserving the wine.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, flameproof casserole and brown the meat a few pieces at a time. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

4. Add the remaining oil to the pan and brown the onions, carrots, celery and shallots. Pour in the reserved wine and the stock and bring to the boil.

5. Return the meat to the pan and add the parsley stalks, thyme, tomato purée, vinegar and sugar. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and simmer very gently for 3–4 hours, or until the meat is very tender and falling apart.

6. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a warmed serving dish and keep warm. Strain the liquid and discard the vegetables.

7. Return the liquid to the pan and boil rapidly until it is reduced by two-thirds, tastes strong and looks glossy. Season to taste, pour the sauce over the meat and garnish with the pancetta.. Serve immediately.

Crisp pancetta

8 slices of smoked pancetta

1. Heat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/gas mark 6.

2. Lay the pancetta on a baking sheet and place a second baking sheet on top (this keeps it flat and prevents shrinkage). Place in the highest part of the oven for 5–7 minutes.

3. Carefully remove the top baking sheet and transfer the hot pancetta to a sheet of absorbent kitchen paper and allow to cool.

Wine recommendation: Chateâuneuf-du-pape, new world Pinot Noir or Merlot